Day one: the city is walked
Start in the park inside the Novi Pazar fortress — entry is free and it is the easiest place to grasp how the city sits in its basin. Then walk out into the old bazaar: Isa-beg's 15th-century hammam, Amir-aga's han, the Altun-alem Mosque and the Lejlek Mosque are each a few minutes from the next. Make lunch mantije or ćevapi, and come back along the bank of the Raška.
Day two: four UNESCO monuments
St Peter's church, Đurđevi Stupovi, the Stari Ras fortifications and Sopoćani monastery together form the property "Stari Ras and Sopoćani", inscribed by UNESCO in 1979. All four fit into one day by car: St Peter's stands on the hill just above town, Đurđevi Stupovi a few kilometres north-west, and Ras and Sopoćani follow one another along the road west up the Raška valley.
A few small things that help
Bring cash in dinars — cards often will not work at the market or in small shops. Wear shoes you can walk in: the approach to Đurđevi Stupovi and the Ras fortifications is steep and unmade. For monasteries and mosques, count on covering shoulders and knees. And before setting out for Sopoćani or Ras, call in at the info centre in the Pendik hall — that is where you get a map, a guide, and confirmation that the site is open.
